Takahachi Tribeca

So you're craving Nobu, but you can't even get into Next Door Nobu? Just walk a few blocks from Franklin to Duane, where you'll find Takahachi Tribeca. This nouveau Japanese restaurant uses the same excellent fish supplier as Nobu, but prices are more reasonable!

In homage to the neighborhood film festival, chef Jun Orita has named his creative maki after famous movies. Try the "Passage To India," a curried tuna, avocado and mango roll, or the "Godfather," a mouthful of fried oysters, cucumber and Gorgonzola. If your tastes run to the more traditional, there's an extensive a la carte sushi menu, as well as entrees like grilled organic chicken teriyaki, diced prime rib in avocado wasabi sauce, and grilled salmon in green tea salt. The latter was my choice last night; the crispy-skinned salmon arrived with a small salad of cold udon, julienned shiitakes with ginger, and a bowl of snow peas in sweet white miso sauce. I must also mention the vibrant yuzu, white miso and snow pea soup, and the yellowtail tartare appetizer. The tartare, served in a bamboo leaf, was a delectable mixture of yellowtail, creamy sea urchin and crunchy smelt roe.

If only I'd had room for the pumpkin mousse...

Takahachi Tribeca: 145 Duane St., (212) 571-1830.